Textiles Byzantine dress

manuscript illumination of emperor nicephorus iii botaniates (1078-81) flanked st john chrysostomos , archangel michael

as in china, there large byzantine imperial workshops, apparently based in constantinople, textiles other arts mosaic. although there other important centres, imperial workshops led fashion , technical developments , products used diplomatic gifts other rulers, being distributed favoured byzantines. in late 10th century, emperor sent gold , fabrics russian ruler in hope prevent him attacking empire.

most surviving examples not used clothes , feature large woven or embroidered designs. before byzantine iconoclasm these contained religious scenes such annunciations, in number of panels on large piece of cloth. naturally stopped during periods of iconoclasm , exception of church vestments [1] part figural scenes did not reappear afterwards, being replaced patterns , animal designs. examples show large designs being used clothing great - 2 enormous embroidered lions killing camels occupy whole of coronation cloak of roger ii in vienna, produced in palermo 1134 in workshops byzantines had established there. [2] sermon saint asterius of amasia, end of 5th century, gives details of imagery on clothes of rich (which condemns):

when, therefore, dress , appear in public, pictured walls in eyes of meet them. , perhaps children surround them, smiling 1 , pointing out finger picture on garment; , walk along after them, following them long time. on these garments lions , leopards; bears , bulls , dogs; woods , rocks , hunters; , attempts imitate nature painting.... such rich men , women more pious, have gathered gospel history , turned on weavers.... may see wedding of galilee, , water-pots; paralytic carrying bed on shoulders; blind man being healed clay; woman bloody issue, taking hold of border of garment; sinful woman falling @ feet of jesus; lazarus returning life grave....

both christian , pagan examples, embroidered panels sewn plainer cloth, have been preserved in exceptional conditions of graves in egypt, although iconic portrait-style images rather narrative scenes asterius describes in diocese of amasya in northern anatolia. portrait of caesar constantius gallus in chronography of 354 shows several figurative panels on clothes, round or oval (see gallery).

the silk shroud of charlemagne manufactured in constantinople c. 814

early decorated cloth embroidered in wool on linen base, , linen more common cotton throughout period. raw silk yarn imported china, , timing , place of first weaving of in near eastern world matter of controversy, egypt, persia, syria , constantinople being proposed, dates in 4th , 5th centuries. byzantine textile decoration shows great persian influence, , little direct china. according legend agents of justinian bribed 2 buddhist monks khotan in 552 discover secret of cultivating silk, although continued imported china.

resist dyeing common late roman period outside court, , woodblock printing dates @ least 6th century, , possibly earlier - again function cheaper alternative woven , embroidered materials of rich. apart egyptian burial-cloths, rather fewer cheap fabrics have survived expensive ones. should remembered depicting patterned fabric in paint or mosaic difficult task, impossible in small miniature, artistic record, shows patterned fabrics in large-scale figures in best quality works, under-records use of patterned cloth overall.